SIMON DALY wrote . . . . . . . . .
Japanese-style sando have rightly taken their place in the global pantheon of sandwiches. (The Japanese terminology is simply a shortening of the English.)
Thick, fluffy shokupan (milk bread) is perfect when paired with soft fillings, such as the famous fruit and cream sando, the late Anthony Bourdain’s favorite tamago (egg salad) sando and the equally popular crispy katsu (cutlet) sando.
Pardon a mad thought, but what if the next big trend in sando fillings was just crisped bread?
The definitive guide to 19th-century Victorian British domesticity was “Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management.” First published in 1861, it expanded its pages with subsequent republishings for nearly 50 years. An 1877 addition to the classic 2,000-page tome was a “Toast Sandwich” — dubiously described as being “very tempting to the appetite of an invalid.”
This is not a sandwich made between slices of toast, nor is it a toasted sandwich. What is being described is a toasted slice of bread, seasoned with salt and pepper, that is then sandwiched between two untoasted slices (the original recipe has the added option of cold cuts, though the dish has since been reimagined by the likes of three-Michelin-star chef Heston Blumenthal, who incorporates bone marrow and other lavish ingredients).
Today, we use Mrs. Beeton’s idea to add texture to the humble tamago sando. Though perfect as they are, by nature, they lack a distinguishing textural element: the satisfying crunch of a single slice of toast.
Though Japan’s egg salad sandwiches are as close to perfection as you can get, they lack a distinguishing textural element: the satisfying crunch of a single slice of toast.
Though Japan’s egg salad sandwiches are as close to perfection as you can get, they lack a distinguishing textural element: the satisfying crunch of a single slice of toast. |
The Recipe
Serves 2
Cook time: 15 minutes
Ingredients:
4 eggs
50 milliliters Kewpie mayonnaise
6 slices shokupan
50 grams butter (can be substituted with more mayonnaise)
Salt and pepper
Optional: parsley or celery leaves, chopped
Directions:
1. Fill a small pot with water, bring to boil, then add your eggs for nine minutes. Place them immediately into a bath of cold water, then peel while still warm. A tip: Slightly older eggs will peel easier than fresh ones.
2. Once peeled and cooled, cut them in half, scooping out the yolks to mix with your mayonnaise until thick and smooth. With a sharp knife, finely cube the egg whites, then mix with the yolk and mayonnaise blend. Season with salt and pepper, optionally splitting and mixing in chopped parsley or celery leaves into half.
3. If you prefer your sando without the crust, now is the time to cut them off. Otherwise, melt your butter in a frying pan, then add two slices of shokupan, pressing firmly with a spatula to squash to half the original thickness. Turn once the bread is golden and cooked on both sides. Alternatively, spread mayonnaise on the bread and fry, though keep at low heat so as not to burn. If you’re very pressed for time, just put these slices in a toaster.
4. Assemble the sandwich by spreading the egg mixture on two untoasted slices of shokupan and then sandwiching the fried or toasted bread between. Cut into triangles and serve with salad.
Source: The Japan Times
Filed under: Food, News and Articles, Recipe | Comments Off on Japanese Bread Sandwich